French Terry vs Fleece: What Is the Difference and Which Is Better for Hoodies?

Walk into any hoodie category and you will see two fabrics sold side by side: French terry and fleece. They look similar on a hanger, both have a soft, looped inner side, and the names are often used loosely. But they feel different, perform differently and suit different seasons and customers. Choosing the wrong one for your product is a common reason hoodies get returned for being “too thin” or “too hot”. This guide explains the difference in plain language and helps you pick the right one.
The Short Answer
French terry has a smooth face and small, un-brushed loops on the inside. It is lighter, more breathable and works for mild weather. Fleece starts the same way, but the inside loops are brushed into a soft, fluffy pile. It is warmer, cosier and better for cold weather. In short: French terry for layering and mild seasons, fleece for real winter warmth.
How Each Fabric Is Made
Both are knitted fabrics made with an extra yarn that forms loops on the back. In French terry, those loops are left as they are, which gives a textured, towel-like inside. In fleece, the loops are put through a brushing machine that raises and softens the fibres into a pile, which traps air and holds warmth. Our knitting process guide explains the full process.
French Terry vs Fleece: Side by Side
| Factor | French terry | Fleece (brushed) |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Looped, slightly textured | Soft, brushed pile |
| Warmth | Light to moderate | Warm to very warm |
| Breathability | Higher | Lower |
| Typical weight | 250β350 GSM | 280β400 GSM |
| Best season | Spring, autumn, mild winter | Winter and cold regions |
| Look of the outer face | Clean, smooth, drapes well | Smooth, slightly fuller |
| Pilling | Lower tendency | Can pill without good yarn and finish |
| Takes print and embroidery | Very well | Well |
Weights are common industry ranges, not fixed rules, and mills vary.
When to Choose French Terry
- Your customers live in mild or warm climates, or you sell across more than one season.
- You want a premium, structured drape, especially in heavy weights. See our heavyweight hoodie guide.
- You are making joggers, sweatshirts or lightweight zip-ups.
- You plan heavy branding such as embroidery or puff print on a clean surface.
When to Choose Fleece
- Your market has cold winters, mountain regions or you sell mostly from October to February.
- Warmth and softness against the skin are the main selling points.
- You are making winter hoodies, zip-ups and tracksuits. See our winter fabrics guide.
Fibre Matters: Cotton, CVC or Polyester
Both fabrics can be made from different fibres. Cotton-rich versions feel natural and soft; CVC blends (cotton-rich with some polyester) resist shrinkage and pilling better; polyester-rich versions are lighter and dry faster but feel more synthetic. See our blends guide for the trade-offs, and our GSM guide for how to read the weight.
What to Put on Your Tech Pack
Do not just write “fleece” or “terry”. Specify the knit structure, composition, target GSM with a tolerance, and finish (brushed or not, pre-shrunk, anti-pill). Our tech pack guide shows where each detail goes, and our own face-cover hoodie and fleece tracksuit are examples of fleece-based winter pieces.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is French terry warmer than fleece?
No. Fleece is generally warmer because its brushed pile traps more air. French terry is lighter and more breathable.
Which is better for a hoodie?
It depends on the climate and season. Fleece suits cold winters; French terry suits mild weather and all-season hoodies.
Does French terry shrink?
Cotton-rich terry can shrink if it is not pre-treated. Ask for a washed sample and shrinkage results before approving bulk.
Can I make both for my brand?
Yes. Many brands use French terry for sweatshirts and joggers and fleece for winter hoodies. Sampling starts from a 1-set MOQ and production from around 50 pieces per style.
Deciding between the two? Start your private label project or send a wholesale inquiry, and we’ll recommend one for your market.