Knitting Process in Garment Manufacturing: Jersey, Rib, Interlock & Fleece Explained
Most T-shirts, polos, hoodies and sweatshirts you see on the market are knitted, not woven. Yet many brands specify “cotton jersey” or “fleece” without knowing what that means on the factory floor. Understanding the knitting process helps you write a better spec, compare quotes fairly and avoid surprises like twisting side seams or a fabric that pills after a few washes. Here is how knitted fabric is made and which choices matter most.
Knitted vs Woven Fabric
Woven fabric is made by interlacing two sets of yarn at right angles β think shirting or denim. Knitted fabric is made by looping a yarn through itself, row after row. Those loops are why knits stretch, recover and feel soft, and why they need different handling in cutting and sewing. Knits are the natural choice for tees, activewear, loungewear and hoodies; wovens suit structured shirts and trousers.
From Yarn to Garment: The Process
- Yarn selection β fibre, yarn count (the thickness) and spinning method are chosen to match the target feel and price.
- Knitting β machines loop the yarn into fabric. Circular machines produce a tube of fabric; flat machines produce panels, collars and cuffs.
- Grey fabric inspection β the raw knit is checked for holes, needle lines and uneven tension.
- Dyeing or printing β the fabric is scoured, dyed and washed. Fibre type decides the dye system.
- Finishing β steps such as compacting, brushing, softening and heat setting fix the width, GSM and shrinkage.
- Relaxing and testing β the fabric rests, then shrinkage, GSM and colour fastness are checked.
- Cutting and sewing β only now does garment production begin.
Weft Knitting vs Warp Knitting
In weft knitting, loops are formed across the width of the fabric, in a row. This covers almost all everyday apparel knits β jersey, rib, interlock, fleece. It stretches well in both directions but can run if a yarn breaks. In warp knitting, loops run along the length of the fabric with many yarns working together. It is more stable and run-resistant, used for mesh, tricot, linings and some sportswear. For most private label clothing, you will be choosing among weft knits.
The Main Knit Structures
| Structure | What it is | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | Smooth face, textured back; the classic T-shirt knit | Tees, tank tops, polos (base fabric) |
| Rib (1×1, 2×2) | Vertical ridges, high stretch and recovery | Collars, cuffs, hems, fitted tops |
| Interlock | Two layers knitted together, smooth on both sides, more stable | Premium tees, kidswear, sleepwear |
| Pique | Small textured pattern on the face | Polo shirts |
| Fleece / French terry | Looped back; brushed (fleece) or left looped (terry) | Hoodies, sweatshirts, tracksuits |
The Specs That Change Quality and Price
- Yarn count β finer yarn makes a smoother, lighter fabric and costs more. Combed cotton is cleaner and smoother than carded.
- Spinning method β ring-spun yarn generally feels softer and stronger than open-end yarn, which is cheaper.
- Stitch length and gauge β tighter loops give a denser, heavier fabric with better shape retention. Loose loops feel light but can lose shape.
- GSM β the result of yarn count, gauge and stitch length together. See our fabric GSM guide.
- Finishing β pre-shrinking, brushing, enzyme or silicone softening all change hand-feel and durability.
Common Knit Problems and How to Avoid Them
- Spirality (twisting) β side seams drift around the body after washing. It comes from unbalanced knit tension and is reduced with the right yarn twist and finishing.
- Shrinkage β always ask for lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage results after wash on your sample.
- Pilling β small balls of fibre on the surface, more common with short fibres and loose construction. Fibre blends matter here; see our cotton and polyester blends guide.
- Curling edges β single jersey curls at cut edges, so it needs rib or binding at necklines and hems.
How This Fits Your Order
A good tech pack states the knit structure, composition, GSM, finish and shrinkage tolerance, so every sample and bulk order is built to the same standard. Our tech pack guide explains how, and our published hoodie tech pack shows a real example. If you’re comparing fabrics, the hoodie manufacturer guide walks through fleece weights and pricing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between jersey and interlock?
Jersey is a single layer with a smooth face and a different back. Interlock is two layers knitted together, smooth on both sides, thicker and more stable, and usually costs more.
Is fleece the same as French terry?
Both have a looped inner side. French terry keeps the loops as they are, giving a lighter, breathable fabric. Fleece brushes the loops into a soft pile, giving more warmth.
Do I need to choose the knit structure myself?
No. Tell us the garment, target feel and budget, and we’ll recommend the structure, composition and GSM to match β then confirm it on a sample.
Ready to develop a knit garment? Start your private label project or send a wholesale inquiry. You can also read our modal fabric guide for a premium-feel alternative to cotton.