Polo Shirt Manufacturing: Pique vs Jersey, Collars, Plackets and Spec Sheet Guide
The polo shirt looks simple, but it is one of the more detailed garments to manufacture. The fabric, the collar, the placket, the buttons and the branding all need to be right, and small mistakes show immediately on a shirt that sits at the neck and chest. Whether you are making polos for a fashion line, a corporate uniform or a team, this guide explains how polos are built, how pique compares with jersey, and what to put on your spec sheet.
What Makes a Polo a Polo
- A knitted collar, usually flat-knit, that sits neatly around the neck
- A placket, the short opening at the front, with two or three buttons
- Knitted cuffs or hemmed sleeves
- Side vents at the hem for movement
- A chest logo or small branding, usually embroidered
Pique vs Jersey: The Main Fabric Choice
| Factor | Pique | Single jersey |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | Small raised pattern, textured | Smooth and flat |
| Look | Classic polo, sporty and structured | Modern, softer, closer to a T-shirt |
| Breathability | Higher, the texture lifts fabric off the skin | Good, drapes closer |
| Durability | Holds shape and hides marks well | Can show wear and curl at edges |
| Typical weight | 180β240 GSM | 160β220 GSM |
| Best for | Uniforms, golf, corporate, classic polos | Fashion and casual polos |
Weights are common industry ranges and mills vary. Read our GSM guide and knitting process guide for how these knits are made.
Choosing the Fibre
- 100% cotton is soft and breathable, but can shrink and wrinkle. Combed, ring-spun cotton gives the best feel. See combed vs carded cotton.
- Cotton-polyester blends reduce shrinkage and wrinkling, and are a popular uniform choice. See our blends guide.
- Polyester or performance blends dry quickly, which suits sport and golf polos.
- A little elastane adds stretch for a more comfortable fit. See our elastane guide.
The Details That Decide Quality
- Collar: check that it lies flat, keeps its shape after washing and does not curl. A collar that is too soft looks tired quickly.
- Placket: length, width and stitching should be neat and symmetrical, with reinforced stitching at the base.
- Buttons: choose a good quality button, sewn firmly, and make sure the colour suits the fabric.
- Shoulder seams: taped or stabilised seams stop stretching.
- Side vents and hem: clean finishing, with a stitch that lets the hem sit flat.
- Shrinkage: test after washing, as knits can twist or shorten.
Branding on Polos
Embroidery is the most common choice for polos, usually a small logo on the left chest, because it looks premium and lasts. Printing and heat transfer also work, depending on the fabric. Our guide to printing and embroidery methods compares them. For uniforms, add custom woven labels and packaging for a finished look.
What to Put on Your Spec Sheet
- Fabric: pique or jersey, composition, GSM with tolerance, finish
- Collar and cuff type, size and colour
- Placket length and number of buttons, with button type
- Measurement chart with tolerances for every size
- Seam types, shoulder taping and hem finish
- Logo size, position and method
- Labels and packing instructions
Our tech pack guide shows how to lay this out, and our example tech packs show real specs. For pricing your polos, read our landed cost and pricing guide.
Common Polo Mistakes
- Choosing a fabric that is too light and becomes see-through or curls.
- Ignoring collar quality, the first thing customers notice.
- Skipping a wash test and discovering shrinkage after bulk.
- Over-complicated branding on a classic shirt.
- Giving no measurement tolerances, so sizes vary.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is pique fabric?
Pique is a knitted fabric with a small, raised, textured pattern on the surface. It is the classic polo shirt fabric, known for breathability and shape retention.
Is pique better than jersey for polos?
Pique gives the classic, structured look and is more durable, while jersey is softer and more casual. The best choice depends on your customer and style.
Can I order custom polos with a low MOQ?
Send us your spec and quantity and we’ll confirm. Sampling starts from a 1-set MOQ and production from around 50 pieces per style.
Planning a polo range? Start your private label project or send a wholesale inquiry with your fabric, fit and branding.